What's inside the checklist
40 checks across the 7 things that actually decide whether an NB is a bargain or a bill.
Paperwork & history
V5C, MOT history red flags, cambelt proof, and the receipts that separate a cared-for car from a polished gamble.
Rust & structure
Sills, jacking points, arches, chassis rails and boot floor — where to probe, and what "walk away" looks like.
Bodywork & panels
Panel gaps, repaint tell-tales, and whether that "genuine hardtop" is actually adding value.
Engine (cold)
The cold-start checks sellers hope you'll skip — smoke, VVT rattle, coolant, and the head-gasket giveaway.
Test drive
Clutch, gearbox, stalling, tracking and knocks — the faults that only show under load or at speed.
Soft top, leaks & electrics
Rear window, damp footwells (and where the water's really coming from), windows, locking and interior wear.
A taste of the checks
Three of the forty — the full set, in order, arrives by email.
They rot from the inside out, so the outside can look fine. Soft or crackly metal means expensive welding — the NB's defining cost risk.
If they "just popped to the shops", be suspicious — a warm engine hides hard starting, smoke and a tired VVT rattle.
Water and rust collect in the spare-wheel well — a classic hidden-rot spot that fails MOTs.
Get the full 40-point checklist — free
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Why bother with a checklist?
Because the difference between a great NB and a money pit is often invisible at a glance — and emotion makes buyers miss it. A rotten sill or chassis rail can cost more to repair than the car is worth, which is exactly why so many NBs get scrapped. Fifteen minutes with this checklist, in the right order, is the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy. Pair it with the cost calculator and you'll know both what to check and what to pay.